Jean Collet started Domaine Collet in 1954, the heir of a Chablis grape-growing family since 1792. It passed down to his son, and how to grandson Romain, in charge of his first vintage at age 21. Romain moved the domaine to native yeast, and organic and biodynamic farming. Native fermented in used French oak (5% new), this underwent full MLF and aged in the same barrels for 11 months, prior to moving into stainless for 5 months of tightening. This alluring wine shows Montée de Tonnerre's rightful claim to fame as a preeminent 1er cru. The thin Fyé Valley separates it from the Grand Cru slope, on the eastern side of the Serein, and if it weren’t for some weakness in the soil that led to the creation of this narrow ravine, Montée de Tonnerre would likely have been included in the Grand Cru classification. Lemon blossoms, lemon peel, fine cream, and lightly shimmering Kimmeridgian minerality stream along the slender, gentle, lees-decked palate. The sides are strung with chalk, finishing with a juiciness that invites another glass. An understated, subtle, quietly charming Montée de Tonnerre. 2017 is a classic vintage (like 2014) with freshness, poise, clarity and tension and great ageing potential.