With a nod to vermouth and other bitter Italian drinks, Bittersweet Aperitivo, a new contender from Wilderton, a nonalcoholic spirits company in Portland, Oregon is a cocktail hour success. It’s the company’s third such product in its two-year history and its best by a long shot. The reddish drink, long on the botanical components with a touch of chardonnay juice, delivers a boldly herbal aroma and a sharp edge, more bitter than sweet. Pour it on the rocks with a smidgen of fresh orange juice and a swipe of the peel on the rim of the glass.